Montanov 68

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about Montanov™ 68 (cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside). Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

How to read this page

Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews.

Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY^® uses.

Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: Montanov™ 68 is a PEG-free emulsifier made of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, a sugar-based surfactant. In ORY^® products, it builds natural-positioned lotions and creams with a silky, skin-like feel.

Verification: Supported. The CIR Expert Panel found cetearyl alcohol safe as used and alkyl glucosides, including cetearyl glucoside, safe when formulated to be non-irritating.

Citations:

- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
  - What it shows: CIR safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol.
- Fiume, M. M., et al. (2013). Safety assessment of decyl glucoside and other alkyl glucosides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(5 Suppl), 22S–48S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581813497764
  - What it shows: CIR safety assessment of alkyl glucosides.

2. Composition and Production

Claim: Montanov™ 68 is about 80% cetearyl alcohol and 20% cetearyl glucoside. It forms layered (lamellar) liquid-crystal structures that hold water in the emulsion. The palm-free “Vegetal” grade is COSMOS-approved.

Verification: Supported. Its chemistry is documented by CIR and the supplier.

Citations:

- Fiume, M. M., et al. (2013). Safety assessment of decyl glucoside and other alkyl glucosides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(5 Suppl), 22S–48S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581813497764
  - What it shows: Describes alkyl glucosides.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: Montanov™ 68 suits all skin types.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Alkyl glucosides are generally mild, but they were named the American Contact Dermatitis Society’s Allergen of the Year in 2017. Allergy is uncommon; people with a history of dermatitis should patch test.

Citations:

- Fiume, M. M., et al. (2013). Safety assessment of decyl glucoside and other alkyl glucosides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(5 Suppl), 22S–48S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581813497764
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.
- Loranger, C., Alfalah, M., Ferrier Le Bouedec, M. C., & Sasseville, D. (2017). Alkyl glucosides in contact dermatitis: A systematic review. Dermatitis, 28(1), 5–13. https://doi.org/10.1097/DER.0000000000000240
  - What it shows: Review of alkyl glucoside allergy.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, Montanov™ 68 builds PEG-free curl creams, leave-ins, and hair masks.

Verification: Limited evidence. It does not condition like a cationic conditioner. ORY^® haircare products are not intended to treat scalp conditions.

Citations:

- Fiume, M. M., et al. (2013). Safety assessment of decyl glucoside and other alkyl glucosides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(5 Suppl), 22S–48S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581813497764
  - What it shows: Reported uses.

5. Benefits

Claim: Montanov™ 68 creates stable creams that help skin feel soft and hydrated.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. A lab and human study of a related glucoside emulsifier (coco-glucoside with cetearyl alcohol) found its layered structures supported skin hydration. Results for Montanov™ 68 itself may differ.

Citations:

- Savić, S., Lukić, M., Jakšić, I., Vuleta, G., Tamburić, S., & Müller-Goymann, C. C. (2011). An alkyl polyglucoside-mixed emulsifier as stabilizer of emulsion systems: The influence of colloidal structure on emulsions skin hydration potential. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 358(1), 182–191. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jcis.2011.02.049
  - What it shows: Study of a related alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Claim: Montanov™ 68 is used in ORY^® Skincare, Haircare, and Cosmetics, and in solid lotion and syndet bars.

Verification: Supported. Use levels fall within the ranges CIR reviewed.

Product line	Typical level	How ORY^® uses it
Skincare	2–6%	Face and body creams, lotions, and active-rich creams.
Haircare	2–5%	Curl creams, leave-ins, hair masks, and scalp creams.
Handmade Soap line	5–15% in solid bars	Lotion and syndet bars (not cold-process soap).
Cosmetics	2–5%	Foundations, BB creams, and cream blush.

Citations:

- Fiume, M. M., et al. (2013). Safety assessment of decyl glucoside and other alkyl glucosides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(5 Suppl), 22S–48S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581813497764
  - What it shows: Reported uses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
  - What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.

7. Pros

Claim: A PEG-free, natural-origin emulsifier with CIR-reviewed components.

Verification: Supported. Tolerant of acids and many actives.

Citations:

- Fiume, M. M., et al. (2013). Safety assessment of decyl glucoside and other alkyl glucosides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(5 Suppl), 22S–48S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581813497764
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.

8. Cons

Claim: Montanov™ 68 costs more, thickens slowly, and contains an alkyl glucoside, which can rarely cause allergy.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

- Cost. Higher than Emulsifying Wax NF.
- Slow to thicken. Viscosity builds over about 24 hours.
- Processing. Needs 75–80 °C.
- Allergy. Alkyl glucoside allergy is uncommon but documented.

Citations:

- Loranger, C., Alfalah, M., Ferrier Le Bouedec, M. C., & Sasseville, D. (2017). Alkyl glucosides in contact dermatitis: A systematic review. Dermatitis, 28(1), 5–13. https://doi.org/10.1097/DER.0000000000000240
  - What it shows: Allergy.

9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- If you are allergic to alkyl glucosides (such as decyl or lauryl glucoside), avoid this product.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

- Loranger, C., Alfalah, M., Ferrier Le Bouedec, M. C., & Sasseville, D. (2017). Alkyl glucosides in contact dermatitis: A systematic review. Dermatitis, 28(1), 5–13. https://doi.org/10.1097/DER.0000000000000240
  - What it shows: Allergy.

10. Product-line notes

- ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY^® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
- ORY^® Handmade Soap line: This ingredient is not used in cold-process soap. Syndet, lotion, shampoo, and conditioner bars that contain it are cosmetics under FDA rules, not soap, and list all of their ingredients. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY^® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
- Fiume, M. M., et al. (2013). Safety assessment of decyl glucoside and other alkyl glucosides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(5 Suppl), 22S–48S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581813497764
- Loranger, C., Alfalah, M., Ferrier Le Bouedec, M. C., & Sasseville, D. (2017). Alkyl glucosides in contact dermatitis: A systematic review. Dermatitis, 28(1), 5–13. https://doi.org/10.1097/DER.0000000000000240
- Savić, S., Lukić, M., Jakšić, I., Vuleta, G., Tamburić, S., & Müller-Goymann, C. C. (2011). An alkyl polyglucoside-mixed emulsifier as stabilizer of emulsion systems: The influence of colloidal structure on emulsions skin hydration potential. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 358(1), 182–191. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jcis.2011.02.049

Government and regulatory sources

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20

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Montanov 68

1. General Description and Role

2. Composition and Production

3. Skin Type Suitability

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

5. Benefits

6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines

7. Pros

8. Cons

9. Safety Notes

10. Product-line notes

11. References

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines