Centella Asiatica Extract

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about Centella asiatica extract. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

How to read this page

Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews.

Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY^® uses.

Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: Centella asiatica, also called gotu kola, tiger grass, or “cica,” is a creeping herb with a long history in traditional medicine. In skin care, its extract helps skin feel moisturized, helps calm the look of redness, and supports a healthy-looking skin barrier.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel found Centella asiatica-derived ingredients safe as used in cosmetics when formulated to be non-sensitizing. A controlled human study found creams with Centella extract improved skin hydration and reduced water loss. Many other benefits, including collagen effects, come from laboratory and animal research.

Citations:

- Johnson, W., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2023). Safety assessment of Centella asiatica-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 42(1 Suppl), 5S–22S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231158272
  - What it shows: CIR safety review: safe as used when formulated to be non-sensitizing.
- Ratz-Łyko, A., Arct, J., & Pytkowska, K. (2016). Moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 78(1), 27–33. https://doi.org/10.4103/0250-474X.180247
  - What it shows: Human study: improved hydration, reduced water loss, and faster calming after an irritation test.
- Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awiżeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., & Brzezińska, M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Postępy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 30(1), 46–49. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24278045/
  - What it shows: Review of Centella’s uses in cosmetics.

2. Composition and Production

Claim: Centella extract is made from the leaves and aerial parts using water, glycerin, alcohol, or oil. Its main active compounds are the triterpenes asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid. Standardized extracts guarantee a set triterpene content.

Verification: Supported. The plant’s chemistry and main triterpenes are well documented.

Citations:

- Gohil, K. J., Patel, J. A., & Gajjar, A. K. (2010). Pharmacological review on Centella asiatica: A potential herbal cure-all. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 72(5), 546–556. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21694984/
  - What it shows: Pharmacological review describing Centella’s triterpenes and other compounds.
- Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awiżeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., Dańczak-Pazdrowska, A., & Brzezińska, M. (2014). Centella asiatica in dermatology: An overview. Phytotherapy Research, 28(8), 1117–1124. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5110
  - What it shows: Dermatology review of the active compounds.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: Centella suits most skin types. It helps calm the look of redness in sensitive skin, helps dry skin feel moisturized, stays lightweight for oily and combination skin, and helps mature skin look firmer and smoother.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Hydration and calming benefits were shown in a human study. Firming effects come mainly from lab studies on collagen. Reactions are uncommon, but allergic contact dermatitis to Centella extract has been reported.

Citations:

- Ratz-Łyko, A., Arct, J., & Pytkowska, K. (2016). Moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 78(1), 27–33. https://doi.org/10.4103/0250-474X.180247
  - What it shows: Human study of 2.5% and 5% Centella creams over four weeks.
- Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awiżeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., & Brzezińska, M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Postępy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 30(1), 46–49. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24278045/
  - What it shows: Review of collagen-related and anti-aging research.
- Özkaya, E., et al. (2024). Allergic contact dermatitis from Centella asiatica extract and fragrance allergens: Report of two patients from Turkey. Contact Dermatitis. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.14557
  - What it shows: Case reports of allergic contact dermatitis to Centella extract.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, Centella is used for scalp comfort. It helps a sensitive or dry scalp feel calm and moisturized and suits all hair types and textures.

Verification: Limited evidence. We found no published clinical study of Centella on the human scalp. One laboratory study found Centella extract increased a signaling protein in hair follicle cells grown in a dish, but that does not show hair growth in people. ORY^® haircare products are not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to grow hair or prevent hair loss.

Citations:

- Saansoomchai, P., Limmongkon, A., Surangkul, D., Chewonarin, T., & Srikummool, M. (2018). Enhanced VEGF expression in hair follicle dermal papilla cells by Centella asiatica Linn. Chiang Mai University Journal of Natural Sciences, 17(1), 25–37. https://cmuj.cmu.ac.th/ns/full/2020180129142308.pdf
  - What it shows: Lab (cell culture) study only; not evidence of hair growth in people.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
  - What it shows: FDA treats products marketed to grow hair or prevent hair loss as drugs.

5. Benefits

Claim: Centella helps skin feel moisturized, helps reduce the look of redness, supports a healthy-looking skin barrier, and provides antioxidant protection.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. In a four-week human study, a cream with 5% Centella extract raised skin hydration by about 25% and reduced water loss by about 18%, and Centella creams reduced redness after an irritation test. Wound-healing, scar, and collagen findings come mostly from animal and lab studies; ORY^® does not make healing, scar, or stretch-mark claims.

Citations:

- Ratz-Łyko, A., Arct, J., & Pytkowska, K. (2016). Moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 78(1), 27–33. https://doi.org/10.4103/0250-474X.180247
  - What it shows: Measured hydration, water loss, and redness in 25 volunteers.
- Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awiżeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., Dańczak-Pazdrowska, A., & Brzezińska, M. (2014). Centella asiatica in dermatology: An overview. Phytotherapy Research, 28(8), 1117–1124. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5110
  - What it shows: Review of wound-healing and anti-inflammatory research, mostly preclinical.
- Gohil, K. J., Patel, J. A., & Gajjar, A. K. (2010). Pharmacological review on Centella asiatica: A potential herbal cure-all. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 72(5), 546–556. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21694984/
  - What it shows: Summary of antioxidant and other pharmacological activity.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Claim: Centella comes in several forms, which lets ORY^® use it in all four product lines.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. The CIR reported a maximum use level of 0.5% for Centella extract in cosmetics; the human study above tested creams at 2.5% and 5% without problems. We found no published data on how much Centella’s active compounds survive cold-process soapmaking, so ORY^® makes no efficacy claims for soap.

Product line	Typical level	How ORY^® uses it
Skincare	0.5–5% extract; 0.1–1% standardized extract	Serums, toners, creams, masks, and cica balms.
Haircare	0.5–3%	Shampoos, conditioners, scalp serums, and hair oils.
Handmade Soap	5–10% of oils as infusion	Centella-infused oil or dried leaf powder for a gentle-feeling botanical bar.
Cosmetics	0.5–2%	Foundations, BB/CC creams, concealers, and lip balms.

Citations:

- Johnson, W., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2023). Safety assessment of Centella asiatica-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 42(1 Suppl), 5S–22S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231158272
  - What it shows: Reported use concentrations and safety conclusion.
- Ratz-Łyko, A., Arct, J., & Pytkowska, K. (2016). Moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 78(1), 27–33. https://doi.org/10.4103/0250-474X.180247
  - What it shows: Human study using 2.5% and 5% extract.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
  - What it shows: FDA explains when soap is regulated as soap, a cosmetic, or a drug.

7. Pros

Claim: Well researched, available in water, oil, and standardized forms, gentle for most skin types, and fits ORY^®’s botanical approach.

Verification: Supported. Supported by multiple reviews and a human hydration study.

Citations:

- Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awiżeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., Dańczak-Pazdrowska, A., & Brzezińska, M. (2014). Centella asiatica in dermatology: An overview. Phytotherapy Research, 28(8), 1117–1124. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5110
  - What it shows: Dermatology overview of the research base.
- Ratz-Łyko, A., Arct, J., & Pytkowska, K. (2016). Moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 78(1), 27–33. https://doi.org/10.4103/0250-474X.180247
  - What it shows: Human evidence for hydration and calming.

8. Cons

Claim: Potency varies between extracts, concentrated extracts can tint and scent formulas, water extracts need strong preservation, and allergy is possible.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

- Variable potency. Non-standardized extracts vary widely in triterpene content.
- Color and scent. Concentrated extracts may tint formulas green-brown and add an herbal scent.
- Preservation. Water extracts need robust preservation.
- Soap. Benefits in rinse-off bars are modest.
- Allergy. Uncommon, but documented. The CIR advises formulating to avoid sensitization.

Citations:

- Johnson, W., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2023). Safety assessment of Centella asiatica-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 42(1 Suppl), 5S–22S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231158272
  - What it shows: Notes on sensitization and plant-constituent levels.
- Özkaya, E., et al. (2024). Allergic contact dermatitis from Centella asiatica extract and fragrance allergens: Report of two patients from Turkey. Contact Dermatitis. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.14557
  - What it shows: Case reports of allergy.

9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes. Do not use on broken or seriously damaged skin.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

- Johnson, W., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2023). Safety assessment of Centella asiatica-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 42(1 Suppl), 5S–22S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231158272
  - What it shows: Safety data reviewed by the CIR.

10. Product-line notes

- ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY^® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
- ORY^® Handmade Soap: Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly in color, scent, and texture. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY^® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

- Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awiżeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., & Brzezińska, M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Postępy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 30(1), 46–49. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24278045/
- Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awiżeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., Dańczak-Pazdrowska, A., & Brzezińska, M. (2014). Centella asiatica in dermatology: An overview. Phytotherapy Research, 28(8), 1117–1124. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5110
- Gohil, K. J., Patel, J. A., & Gajjar, A. K. (2010). Pharmacological review on Centella asiatica: A potential herbal cure-all. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 72(5), 546–556. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21694984/
- Johnson, W., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2023). Safety assessment of Centella asiatica-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 42(1 Suppl), 5S–22S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231158272
- Özkaya, E., et al. (2024). Allergic contact dermatitis from Centella asiatica extract and fragrance allergens: Report of two patients from Turkey. Contact Dermatitis. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.14557
- Ratz-Łyko, A., Arct, J., & Pytkowska, K. (2016). Moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 78(1), 27–33. https://doi.org/10.4103/0250-474X.180247
- Saansoomchai, P., Limmongkon, A., Surangkul, D., Chewonarin, T., & Srikummool, M. (2018). Enhanced VEGF expression in hair follicle dermal papilla cells by Centella asiatica Linn. Chiang Mai University Journal of Natural Sciences, 17(1), 25–37. https://cmuj.cmu.ac.th/ns/full/2020180129142308.pdf

Government and regulatory sources

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap

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Centella Asiatica Extract

1. General Description and Role

2. Composition and Production

3. Skin Type Suitability

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

5. Benefits

6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines

7. Pros

8. Cons

9. Safety Notes

10. Product-line notes

11. References

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines