Urea

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about urea. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

Please note: Some studies on this page tested urea in people with eczema, psoriasis, or other skin conditions. We share them for transparency. ORY^® urea products are cosmetics and are not intended to treat any condition.

How to read this page

Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews.

Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY^® uses.

Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: Urea is a small, water-loving molecule the skin makes itself as part of its natural moisturizing factor. In ORY^® products it hydrates, helps skin feel smooth and soft, and helps rough, dry skin look and feel more comfortable.

Verification: Supported. Urea has been used in skin care for more than a century and is extensively reviewed in the dermatology literature. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel found urea safe as used in cosmetics, with reported use from 0.01% to 10%.

Citations:

- Piquero-Casals, J., Morgado-Carrasco, D., Granger, C., Trullàs, C., Jesús-Silva, A., & Krutmann, J. (2021). Urea in dermatology: A review of its emollient, moisturizing, keratolytic, skin barrier enhancing and antimicrobial properties. Dermatology and Therapy, 11(6), 1905–1915. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8611129/
  - What it shows: Review of urea’s moisturizing, barrier, and exfoliating properties.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2005). Final report of the safety assessment of urea. International Journal of Toxicology, 24(Suppl 3), 1–56. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810500257097
  - What it shows: CIR conclusion: safe as used; reported use up to 10%.

2. Composition and Production

Claim: Urea (CH₄N₂O) is made synthetically from ammonia and carbon dioxide. It is identical to the urea in skin and is not taken from animals. In water it slowly breaks down, raising pH, so formulas are buffered.

Verification: Supported. Its chemistry, role in the natural moisturizing factor, and stability issues are documented.

Citations:

- Celleno, L. (2018). Topical urea in skincare: A review. Dermatologic Therapy, 31(6), e12690. https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.12690
  - What it shows: Review of urea’s properties and formulation.
- Piquero-Casals, J., Morgado-Carrasco, D., Granger, C., Trullàs, C., Jesús-Silva, A., & Krutmann, J. (2021). Urea in dermatology: A review of its emollient, moisturizing, keratolytic, skin barrier enhancing and antimicrobial properties. Dermatology and Therapy, 11(6), 1905–1915. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8611129/
  - What it shows: Describes urea’s role in the natural moisturizing factor.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: Urea is best for dry, rough, and mature skin. Sensitive skin can use low strengths. Oily and acne-prone skin can use it in light body products.

Verification: Supported. Moisturizers with urea are well studied for dry skin. Higher strengths can sting on damaged skin.

Citations:

- Lodén, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
  - What it shows: Review of moisturizers, including urea, for dry skin.
- Celleno, L. (2018). Topical urea in skincare: A review. Dermatologic Therapy, 31(6), e12690. https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.12690
  - What it shows: Tolerability by concentration.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, urea is used in scalp serums to help a dry, tight scalp feel moisturized and comfortable.

Verification: Limited evidence. Our scalp use is based on urea’s well-documented hydrating effect on skin. We found no published clinical studies of urea in cosmetic scalp products. ORY^® haircare products are not intended to treat dandruff, psoriasis, or other scalp conditions.

Citations:

- Piquero-Casals, J., Morgado-Carrasco, D., Granger, C., Trullàs, C., Jesús-Silva, A., & Krutmann, J. (2021). Urea in dermatology: A review of its emollient, moisturizing, keratolytic, skin barrier enhancing and antimicrobial properties. Dermatology and Therapy, 11(6), 1905–1915. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8611129/
  - What it shows: Hydration evidence for skin, the basis for scalp use.

5. Benefits

Claim: Urea deeply hydrates, supports a healthy-looking skin barrier, softens and smooths rough, dry skin, and helps skin feel more comfortable.

Verification: Supported. Human studies show urea increases skin hydration. A study in people found urea applied to skin changed the activity of genes linked to barrier function. At higher strengths, urea loosens thick, rough skin. Research in eczema and other conditions exists, but those are medical uses; ORY^® does not claim them.

Citations:

- Grether-Beck, S., Felsner, I., Brenden, H., et al. (2012). Urea uptake enhances barrier function and antimicrobial defense in humans by regulating epidermal gene expression. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 132(6), 1561–1572. https://www.jidonline.org/article/S0022-202X(15)35789-4/fulltext
  - What it shows: Human study showing urea increased barrier-related gene activity and improved barrier function.
- Lodén, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
  - What it shows: Evidence for urea moisturizers in dry skin.
- Celleno, L. (2018). Topical urea in skincare: A review. Dermatologic Therapy, 31(6), e12690. https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.12690
  - What it shows: Summarizes hydrating and exfoliating effects by concentration.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Claim: Urea is used in ORY^® Skincare, Haircare, and select Cosmetics. It is not used in handmade soap.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. The CIR reported cosmetic use up to 10%. Stronger urea products are mainly used under medical supervision, and removing corns or calluses is an FDA drug use limited to salicylic acid, so ORY^® cosmetic urea products stay within the moisturizing range. Lye breaks urea down and releases ammonia, so it is not used in soap.

Product line	Typical level	How ORY^® uses it
Skincare	2–10%	Face and body moisturizers and hand and foot creams.
Haircare	2–5%	Scalp-hydrating serums and conditioning masks.
Handmade Soap	Not used	Breaks down in lye and releases ammonia.
Cosmetics	2–5%	Hand, nail-cuticle, and foot products and hydrating primers.

Citations:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2005). Final report of the safety assessment of urea. International Journal of Toxicology, 24(Suppl 3), 1–56. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810500257097
  - What it shows: Reported use concentrations.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 358.510 — Corn and callus remover active ingredients. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/358.510
  - What it shows: FDA’s corn and callus remover rule, which lists only salicylic acid.

7. Pros

Claim: Identical to the skin’s own moisturizer, well studied, affordable, and effective for very dry skin.

Verification: Supported. Supported by reviews and human studies.

Citations:

- Piquero-Casals, J., Morgado-Carrasco, D., Granger, C., Trullàs, C., Jesús-Silva, A., & Krutmann, J. (2021). Urea in dermatology: A review of its emollient, moisturizing, keratolytic, skin barrier enhancing and antimicrobial properties. Dermatology and Therapy, 11(6), 1905–1915. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8611129/
  - What it shows: Evidence review.
- Grether-Beck, S., Felsner, I., Brenden, H., et al. (2012). Urea uptake enhances barrier function and antimicrobial defense in humans by regulating epidermal gene expression. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 132(6), 1561–1572. https://www.jidonline.org/article/S0022-202X(15)35789-4/fulltext
  - What it shows: Human barrier study.

8. Cons

Claim: Urea can sting on damaged skin, needs careful formulation, does not work in soap, and can help other ingredients absorb.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

- Stinging. Especially on cracked, irritated, or freshly shaved skin.
- Formulation stability. Slowly breaks down and can raise pH; needs buffering.
- Absorption. The CIR notes urea can increase absorption of other ingredients.
- Not for soap. Breaks down in lye.
- Perception. Cosmetic urea is synthetic, not animal-derived.

Citations:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2005). Final report of the safety assessment of urea. International Journal of Toxicology, 24(Suppl 3), 1–56. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810500257097
  - What it shows: Notes urea may enhance absorption of other ingredients.
- Celleno, L. (2018). Topical urea in skincare: A review. Dermatologic Therapy, 31(6), e12690. https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.12690
  - What it shows: Formulation and tolerability notes.

9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; avoid broken or freshly shaved skin.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Do not apply to open wounds, cracked or bleeding skin, or freshly shaved skin.
- Stop use if stinging, redness, or rash persists.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

- Celleno, L. (2018). Topical urea in skincare: A review. Dermatologic Therapy, 31(6), e12690. https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.12690
  - What it shows: Tolerability guidance.

10. Product-line notes

- ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY^® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
- ORY^® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

- Celleno, L. (2018). Topical urea in skincare: A review. Dermatologic Therapy, 31(6), e12690. https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.12690
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2005). Final report of the safety assessment of urea. International Journal of Toxicology, 24(Suppl 3), 1–56. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810500257097
- Grether-Beck, S., Felsner, I., Brenden, H., et al. (2012). Urea uptake enhances barrier function and antimicrobial defense in humans by regulating epidermal gene expression. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 132(6), 1561–1572. https://www.jidonline.org/article/S0022-202X(15)35789-4/fulltext
- Lodén, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
- Piquero-Casals, J., Morgado-Carrasco, D., Granger, C., Trullàs, C., Jesús-Silva, A., & Krutmann, J. (2021). Urea in dermatology: A review of its emollient, moisturizing, keratolytic, skin barrier enhancing and antimicrobial properties. Dermatology and Therapy, 11(6), 1905–1915. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8611129/

Government and regulatory sources

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 358.510 — Corn and callus remover active ingredients. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/358.510

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Urea

1. General Description and Role

2. Composition and Production

3. Skin Type Suitability

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

5. Benefits

6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines

7. Pros

8. Cons

9. Safety Notes

10. Product-line notes

11. References

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines