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Emulsifying Wax NF
At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about Emulsifying Wax NF (cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60). Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Emulsifying Wax NF is a standardized blend of cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60 defined by the U.S. National Formulary. In ORY® products, it turns oil and water into smooth, stable lotions and creams. |
Verification: Supported. The CIR Expert Panel has found both components safe in cosmetics: cetearyl alcohol as used, and polysorbates as used when formulated to be non-irritating.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2015). Amended safety assessment of polysorbates as used in cosmetics (final amended report). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polysorbates_0.pdf
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment of polysorbates.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
2. Composition and Production
Claim: It is about 80% cetearyl alcohol and 20% polysorbate 60, melted together into pellets. Some products sold as “emulsifying wax” without “NF” use ceteareth-20 instead, so ORY® checks the ingredient name on every lot. |
Verification: Supported. The components are well documented. Polysorbate 60 is ethoxylated, so low 1,4-dioxane grades are required.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
- What it shows: Cetearyl alcohol chemistry.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2015). Amended safety assessment of polysorbates as used in cosmetics (final amended report). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polysorbates_0.pdf
- What it shows: Polysorbate chemistry.
- New York State Department of Environmental Conservation. 1,4-Dioxane limits for household cleansing, personal care, and cosmetic products (Environmental Conservation Law §35-0105): 10 ppm in cosmetics; 1 ppm in personal care cleansing products. https://dec.ny.gov/environmental-protection/help-for-businesses/household-personal-cosmetic-dioxane-limits
- What it shows: New York 1,4-dioxane limits.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Emulsifying Wax NF suits all skin types. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Both components are CIR-reviewed as safe. Rare allergic reactions to fatty alcohols have been reported, so people with dermatitis should patch test.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
- What it shows: Safety data.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, Emulsifying Wax NF builds curl creams, leave-ins, and hair masks. |
Verification: Supported. It does not condition like a cationic conditioner; ORY® adds BTMS when detangling is needed.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
- What it shows: Reported uses.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
5. Benefits
Claim: Emulsifying Wax NF creates stable creams and lotions that help skin feel soft and smooth. |
Verification: Supported. Its cetearyl alcohol provides emollience; emollients help reduce moisture loss.
Citations:
- Lodén, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
- What it shows: Review of emollients.
- Lodén, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Emulsifying Wax NF is used in ORY® Skincare, Haircare, and Cosmetics, and in solid lotion and syndet bars. |
Verification: Supported. Use levels fall within ranges long used in cosmetics.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 3–8% (3–4% lotion; 6–8% cream) | Lotions, creams, body butters, and Build-Your-Own cream bases. |
| Haircare | 3–6% | Curl creams, leave-ins, hair masks, and scalp creams. |
| Handmade Soap line | 5–15% in solid bars | Lotion and syndet bars (not cold-process soap). |
| Cosmetics | 2–6% | Foundations, BB creams, cream blush, and cleansing creams. |
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
- What it shows: Reported uses.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2015). Amended safety assessment of polysorbates as used in cosmetics (final amended report). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polysorbates_0.pdf
- What it shows: Reported uses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
- What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
7. Pros
Claim: A reliable, forgiving emulsifier with CIR-reviewed components. |
Verification: Supported. Standardized by an official monograph.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
- What it shows: Safety conclusion.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2015). Amended safety assessment of polysorbates as used in cosmetics (final amended report). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polysorbates_0.pdf
- What it shows: Safety conclusion.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
8. Cons
Claim: Emulsifying Wax NF contains an ethoxylated component and can feel waxy. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Ethoxylated (PEG-type). Excluded from COSMOS/Ecocert natural standards.
- 1,4-Dioxane. Ethoxylation can leave trace 1,4-dioxane; ORY® requires low-residue grades that meet New York’s limits.
- Waxy feel. At high levels.
- Name confusion. Check the ingredient list for polysorbate 60 or ceteareth-20.
- Rare allergy. Fatty-alcohol allergy has been reported.
Citations:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2015). Amended safety assessment of polysorbates as used in cosmetics (final amended report). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polysorbates_0.pdf
- What it shows: Chemistry.
- New York State Department of Environmental Conservation. 1,4-Dioxane limits for household cleansing, personal care, and cosmetic products (Environmental Conservation Law §35-0105): 10 ppm in cosmetics; 1 ppm in personal care cleansing products. https://dec.ny.gov/environmental-protection/help-for-businesses/household-personal-cosmetic-dioxane-limits
- What it shows: Limits.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2015). Amended safety assessment of polysorbates as used in cosmetics (final amended report). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polysorbates_0.pdf
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- If you have had allergic reactions to creams or cosmetics before, patch test carefully.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
- What it shows: Safety data.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2015). Amended safety assessment of polysorbates as used in cosmetics (final amended report). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polysorbates_0.pdf
- What it shows: Safety data.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
- ORY® Handmade Soap line: This ingredient is not used in cold-process soap. Syndet, lotion, shampoo, and conditioner bars that contain it are cosmetics under FDA rules, not soap, and list all of their ingredients. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2015). Amended safety assessment of polysorbates as used in cosmetics (final amended report). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polysorbates_0.pdf
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
- Lodén, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
Government and regulatory sources
- New York State Department of Environmental Conservation. 1,4-Dioxane limits for household cleansing, personal care, and cosmetic products (Environmental Conservation Law §35-0105): 10 ppm in cosmetics; 1 ppm in personal care cleansing products. https://dec.ny.gov/environmental-protection/help-for-businesses/household-personal-cosmetic-dioxane-limits
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20