Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50)

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS-50). Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

How to read this page

Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews.

Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY^® uses.

Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: Behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS) is a cationic (positively charged) conditioning emulsifier made from rapeseed oil. BTMS-50 is supplied at about 50% active with cetyl alcohol and butylene glycol. In ORY^® products, it detangles, softens, and smooths hair, and builds conditioners, conditioner bars, and silky lotions.

Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that trimonium ingredients, including behentrimonium methosulfate, are safe in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-irritating.

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: CIR safety assessment of trimoniums.

2. Composition and Production

Claim: BTMS is a C22 quaternary ammonium compound made from rapeseed-derived behenyl chains. “Methosulfate” is its counter-ion; it is not a sulfate cleanser. BTMS-50 also contains cetyl alcohol, which gives body.

Verification: Supported. Because it is cationic, BTMS cannot be combined with anionic cleansers or emulsifiers such as glyceryl stearate SE.

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: Describes chemistry.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
  - What it shows: Cetyl alcohol safety.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: BTMS suits most skin types in body lotions and cleansing creams. It is used mainly in haircare.

Verification: Supported. CIR’s conclusion depends on formulating to avoid irritation.

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, BTMS is ORY^®’s main conditioning ingredient. It is attracted to the negative charge of damaged hair, where it detangles, reduces friction, tames frizz, and adds softness and shine.

Verification: Supported. Cationic conditioning is well established in hair science. ORY^® haircare products are not intended to treat scalp conditions or hair loss.

Citations:

- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
  - What it shows: Review of hair cosmetics, including cationic conditioners.

5. Benefits

Claim: BTMS helps hair feel soft, smooth, and easy to comb, and gives lotions a silky, powdery finish.

Verification: Supported. Conditioning benefits of cationic surfactants are well documented.

Citations:

- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
  - What it shows: Review of conditioning.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Claim: BTMS is used mainly in ORY^® Haircare, with limited use in Skincare, Cosmetics, and conditioner bars.

Verification: Supported. Use levels fall within the ranges CIR reviewed. BTMS is not used in cold-process soap, because it reacts with soap.

Product line	Typical level	How ORY^® uses it
Skincare	2–5%	Body lotions, cream cleansers, and post-shave or post-wax lotions.
Haircare	2–8% rinse-off; 1–3% leave-in; 20–40% bars	Conditioners, masks, leave-ins, detanglers, curl creams, and conditioner bars.
Handmade Soap line	20–40% in conditioner bars	Solid conditioner bars (not soap).
Cosmetics	1–4%	Mascaras, brow gels, and creamy products.

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: Reported uses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
  - What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.

7. Pros

Claim: A plant-derived conditioning emulsifier backed by a CIR safety conclusion.

Verification: Supported. The standard base for conditioners and conditioner bars.

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.

8. Cons

Claim: BTMS cannot be mixed with anionic ingredients and can build up on fine hair.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

- Incompatible with anionics. Keep shampoo and conditioner separate.
- Buildup. Use low levels on fine hair; clarify occasionally.
- Name confusion. “Methosulfate” is not a sulfate cleanser.
- Not for soap. Conditioner bars only.

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: Chemistry.

9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.

10. Product-line notes

- ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY^® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
- ORY^® Handmade Soap line: This ingredient is not used in cold-process soap. Syndet, lotion, shampoo, and conditioner bars that contain it are cosmetics under FDA rules, not soap, and list all of their ingredients. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY^® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/

Government and regulatory sources

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20

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Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50)

1. General Description and Role

2. Composition and Production

3. Skin Type Suitability

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

5. Benefits

6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines

7. Pros

8. Cons

9. Safety Notes

10. Product-line notes

11. References

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines