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Peptides
ORY® product lines:
☑ Skincare
☑ Haircare (scalp and growth-support serums)
☒ Handmade Soap (destroyed by pH and heat)
☑ Cosmetics — three-line dual-use ingredient
Peptides are short chains of amino acids — the building blocks of proteins such as collagen, elastin, and keratin. In skincare they act as messengers: certain sequences signal fibroblasts to make more collagen, others relax the micro-contractions that form expression lines, and others carry trace minerals such as copper into the skin to support repair [1, 2]. Because each peptide is designed for a specific job, ORY® treats “peptides” as a family and selects the right one for the customer’s goal: firming, expression-line smoothing, barrier repair, or scalp and hair support. Peptides are gentle, non-photosensitizing, and combine well with almost every other active, though they must be protected from the extreme pH of soap.
What is Peptides made of?
Cosmetic peptides are synthesized in the laboratory (solid-phase peptide synthesis) to exact sequences, often with a fatty-acid “tail” (palmitoyl, myristoyl) added to improve skin penetration. The main categories [1, 2]:
- Signal peptides (e.g., palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-1): fragments that mimic collagen breakdown products, prompting fibroblasts to produce new collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans.
- Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides (e.g., acetyl hexapeptide-8): reduce the release of acetylcholine at the muscle junction, softening expression lines; a 30-day clinical study reported reduced wrinkle depth [4].
- Carrier peptides (e.g., copper tripeptide-1, GHK-Cu): deliver copper for enzyme function in collagen synthesis, wound healing, and antioxidant defense [3].
- Enzyme-inhibiting peptides (e.g., soy- and rice-derived peptides): slow enzymes that degrade collagen and elastin.
- Hair-specific peptides (e.g., biotinoyl tripeptide-1, acetyl tetrapeptide-3, GHK-Cu): support follicle anchoring and dermal papilla activity [5].
What skin type is best suited for Peptides?
Peptides are among the gentlest anti-aging actives and suit all seven ORY® skin types:
- Mature: The primary audience — firming, wrinkle depth, and elasticity benefits over 8–12 weeks [1, 2].
- Sensitive: Non-irritating alternative to retinoids and acids; copper peptides also calm inflammation.
- Dry: Signal peptides improve dermal water-binding glycosaminoglycans; pair with HA and ceramides.
- Normal: Preventive collagen support from the late 20s onward.
- Combination: Lightweight serums deliver firming without oil.
- Oily: Water-based peptide serums suit oil-free routines.
- Acne-prone: Copper peptides support healing and reduce scarring; avoid heavy occlusive bases.
What hair type is best suited for Peptides?
Several peptides were developed specifically for the scalp, where they support the structures that anchor and nourish the follicle:
- Mature or thinning: The core use — GHK-Cu prolonged the hair-growth phase in cultured human follicles [5]; biotinoyl tripeptide-1 and acetyl tetrapeptide-3 target follicle anchoring proteins (supportive cosmetic claims only).
- Dry or damaged: Hydrolyzed keratin and wheat peptides fill cuticle gaps and improve strength (fiber-focused).
- Color-treated or chemically processed: Protein peptides help rebuild fiber integrity after chemical stress.
- Sensitive scalp: Copper peptides soothe and support scalp repair.
- Straight, wavy, curly, coily: Fiber-strengthening peptides in conditioners and leave-ins for all textures.
- Oily and dandruff-prone scalp: Neutral; use water-light serum bases.
What are the benefits of Peptides?
Peptide benefits depend on the sequence, but the family as a whole offers [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]:
- Collagen stimulation: Signal peptides increase collagen I, III, and IV synthesis, improving firmness and reducing wrinkle depth.
- Expression-line softening: Acetyl hexapeptide-8 reduced wrinkle depth in clinical testing without needles [4].
- Wound healing and repair: GHK-Cu accelerates repair, remodels scar tissue, and shows anti-inflammatory and antioxidant gene effects [3].
- Barrier and hydration: Improves dermal water-binding and reduces water loss.
- Antioxidant and anti-glycation: Certain peptides reduce oxidative damage and protein cross-linking.
- Gentle: No photosensitivity, peeling, or purging.
- Hair support: Follicle-targeting peptides support anchoring and growth-phase duration [5]; fiber peptides strengthen the hair shaft.
Dual use across ORY® product lines
Peptides are effective in leave-on skincare, scalp serums, and cosmetics, but their amide bonds are hydrolyzed by the high pH and heat of cold- and hot-process soap.
Pros and cons of Peptides
Pros
Cons
- Targeted: Sequences can be matched to firming, wrinkles, repair, or hair goals.
- Gentle and non-photosensitizing: Suitable for AM/PM and for retinoid-intolerant customers.
- Layer-friendly: Compatible with HA, niacinamide, vitamin C, retinol, and bakuchiol.
- Clinical support: Growing body of vehicle-controlled studies [1, 2, 4].
- Premium positioning: Strong consumer recognition for “collagen peptides.”
- Cost: Among the most expensive actives per gram.
- Penetration limits: Larger peptides may not reach the dermis; efficacy depends on design and delivery.
- Stability: Degrade at pH extremes, high heat, and with certain enzymes; need pH 5–7 and cool-down addition.
- Copper caution: GHK-Cu can discolor formulas and should not be combined with high-concentration ascorbic acid or strong acids.
- Variable evidence: Some marketed peptides have only supplier data; ORY® favors published sequences.
- Soap-incompatible: No functional role in bars.
What is the best application of Peptides?
Peptides are leave-on ingredients used consistently for 8–12 weeks:
- Serum: Apply after cleansing and water-based hydrators, AM and PM.
- Eye cream: Acetyl hexapeptide-8 and palmitoyl peptides for crow’s feet and under-eye lines.
- Night cream: Signal and copper peptides with ceramides for overnight repair.
- Neck and décolleté: Firming creams for areas that tolerate retinol poorly.
- Post-procedure: GHK-Cu creams after microneedling, peels, or laser (once skin is closed).
- Scalp serum: Apply nightly to a dry scalp, massage in; combine with caffeine, rosemary, and niacinamide.
- Strengthening conditioner: Hydrolyzed protein peptides for damaged or processed hair.
- Cosmetics: Peptide-infused foundation and lip treatments for all-day support.
Peer-reviewed references
- Gorouhi F, Maibach HI. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2009;31(5):327–345.
- Schagen SK. Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics. 2017;4(2):16.
- Pickart L, Margolina A. Regenerative and protective actions of the GHK-Cu peptide in the light of the new gene data. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018;19(7):1987.
- Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, et al. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2002;24(5):303–310.
- Pyo HK, Yoo HG, Won CH, et al. The effect of tripeptide-copper complex on human hair growth in vitro. Archives of Pharmacal Research. 2007;30(7):834–839.
Disclaimer:
The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about peptides as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.
ORY® Skincare, Haircare, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including wounds, scars, acne, hair loss, or any condition requiring medical treatment. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.
Peptide research often tests one specific peptide in one specific formula. Results for one peptide do not apply to all peptides. ORY® cosmetic peptide products are not injectable treatments and do not work like neurotoxin injections. Brow and lash products are designed to condition and do not promote hair growth.
Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. Reactions to cosmetic peptides are uncommon, but any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.
ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].
