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Sodium PCA
ORY® product lines:
☑ Skincare
☑ Haircare
◐ Handmade Soap (limited: liquid soap and syndet bars; wasted in cold-process rinse-off)
☑ Cosmetics — three-line dual-use ingredient
Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid — a molecule the skin itself makes by breaking down the protein filaggrin — and the single most abundant component of the natural moisturizing factor, at roughly 12% of NMF [1, 3]. It is one of the most powerful humectants in cosmetics, binding more water per gram than glycerin, sodium lactate, or sorbitol, with a light, non-tacky feel. Because it is skin-identical, it not only hydrates but replenishes an NMF component that is depleted in dry, aged, and eczema-prone skin and stripped by harsh cleansing [1]. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has concluded sodium PCA is safe in cosmetics [2]. Plant-derived from fermented glutamic acid and stable across pH and heat, it is a premium humectant for ORY® serums, creams, haircare, and cosmetics.
What is Sodium PCA made of?
Sodium PCA is produced by cyclizing L-glutamic acid (from sugar-beet or corn fermentation) to pyroglutamic acid and neutralizing with sodium hydroxide; supplied as a 50% solution. Points to know [1, 2]:
- Sodium salt of L-pyroglutamic acid (2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid): Clear, odorless liquid; pH ~6.8–7.2.
- Largest single NMF component (~12%): Formed in vivo from filaggrin breakdown [1, 3].
- Exceptional water-binding: About 1.5–2× glycerin by weight; non-tacky.
- Stable: Heat- and pH-tolerant; compatible with actives, surfactants, and cationics.
- Vegan, plant-derived; not to be confused with nitrosamine-forming PCA derivatives (sodium PCA itself is not a concern).
What skin type is best suited for Sodium PCA?
Sodium PCA is the skin-identical humectant for all seven ORY® skin types:
- Dry: Sodium PCA draws and holds water in the stratum corneum — the primary beneficiary.
- Dehydrated / Sensitive: Non-irritating hydration that supports barrier recovery; suitable for reactive skin.
- Mature: Restores water content lost with age; plumps fine dehydration lines.
- Normal: Daily hydration maintenance.
- Combination: Oil-free hydration for all zones.
- Oily: The lightest-feeling major humectant; ideal for oil-free hydration.
- Acne-prone: Non-comedogenic; offsets the dryness of acne actives.
What hair type is best suited for Sodium PCA?
Sodium PCA hydrates hair and scalp with a weightless feel:
- Dry or damaged: Sodium PCA binds water to the fiber and scalp, improving softness and pliability.
- Curly and coily: Humectant moisture supports curl definition; seal with oil or butter.
- Color-treated or chemically processed: Replenishes water lost in chemical services; reduces brittleness.
- Sensitive scalp: Hydrates a tight, flaky scalp without irritation.
- Straight and wavy: Light hydration and shine at low levels (high levels can feel sticky or attract humidity frizz).
- Oily scalp, dandruff-prone, mature or thinning: Water-based hydration that does not add oil; supports scalp comfort.
What are the benefits of Sodium PCA?
Sodium PCA’s benefits are supported by NMF science and safety review [1–3]:
- Powerful hydration: Among the strongest humectants by weight; measurable hydration increase [1].
- NMF replenishment: Restores the skin’s most abundant natural humectant, depleted in dry and aged skin [3].
- Barrier support: Hydrated, pliable stratum corneum resists cracking and irritation.
- Non-tacky, weightless feel: Elegant in serums and cosmetics.
- Anti-irritant: Reduces cleanser-induced dryness.
- Hair moisture and manageability: Binds water to the fiber; reduces static.
- Formulation stability: Heat- and pH-stable; compatible with everything.
Dual use across ORY® product lines
Sodium PCA serves leave-on and low-rinse products across three ORY® lines; in cold-process soap it is stable but rinses away, so it belongs only to liquid and syndet cleansers.
| ORY® line | Dual use? | How it is used | Typical level |
|---|---|---|---|
|
ORY® Skincare |
Yes |
Serums, toners, essences, creams, lotions, masks, cleansers; NMF-replenishing blends. |
0.5–3% |
|
ORY® Haircare |
Yes |
Leave-ins, conditioners, scalp serums, shampoos. |
0.5–2% |
|
ORY® Handmade Soap |
Limited |
Rinse-off waste in cold-process bars; useful in liquid soaps and syndet bars for after-feel. Use sodium lactate or glycerin in bars instead. |
0.5–1% in liquid/syndet |
|
ORY® Cosmetics |
Yes |
Foundations, primers, setting sprays, lip products, mascaras. |
0.5–2% |
Pros and cons of Sodium PCA
Pros
Cons
- Most abundant NMF humectant: Skin-identical [1, 3].
- Stronger and lighter than glycerin: Premium feel.
- Universally compatible and stable: Easy to formulate.
- Gentle, CIR-reviewed: [2].
- Vegan, plant-derived: Fermentation.
- Cost: Higher than glycerin.
- Humectant limitation: Pair with emollients in dry air.
- No benefit in bar soap: Rinse-off waste.
- Electrolyte: May affect electrolyte-sensitive thickeners at high %.
- Less consumer recognition: Requires education.
What is the best application of Sodium PCA?
Sodium PCA is built into hydrating products, often as part of an NMF blend:
- NMF serum: 2% sodium PCA + 2% sodium lactate + 3% glycerin + sodium hyaluronate.
- Toner or essence: 1–2%.
- Cream or lotion: 1–3%.
- Cleanser: 0.5–1% to offset dryness.
- Leave-in or conditioner: 1–2%.
- Scalp serum: 1%.
- Cosmetics: 1–2% in hydrating foundations and primers.
Peer-reviewed references
- Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy. 2004;17(Suppl 1):43–48.
- Andersen FA (Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel). Final report on the safety assessment of PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) and sodium PCA. International Journal of Toxicology. 1999;18(Suppl 2):25–34.
- Verdier-Sévrain S, Bonté F. Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanisms. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2007;6(2):75–82.
Disclaimer:
The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about sodium PCA as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.
ORY® Skincare, Haircare, Handmade Soap, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including eczema, dry-skin disorders, or any other condition. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.
Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. Sodium PCA is rarely irritating, and any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.
ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].
