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Licorice Extract
At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about licorice extract. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
Please note: Some studies on this page tested licorice for melasma and atopic dermatitis (eczema), which are medical conditions. We share them for transparency. ORY® licorice products are cosmetics and are not intended to treat any condition.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Licorice extract comes from the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra. Its key compounds include glabridin, liquiritin, and glycyrrhizin. In ORY® products, it helps skin look more even-toned and calm. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Lab studies show glabridin reduces pigment production and signs of inflammation. Human studies are small and tested medical conditions.
Citations:
- Simmler, C., Pauli, G. F., & Chen, S. N. (2013). Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia, 90, 160–184. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Phytochemistry%20and%20biological%20properties%20of%20glabridin
- What it shows: Review of glabridin.
- Yokota, T., Nishio, H., Kubota, Y., & Mizoguchi, M. (1998). The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation. Pigment Cell Research, 11(6), 355–361. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0749.1998.tb00494.x
- What it shows: Lab and animal study of glabridin.
- Simmler, C., Pauli, G. F., & Chen, S. N. (2013). Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia, 90, 160–184. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Phytochemistry%20and%20biological%20properties%20of%20glabridin
2. Composition and Production
Claim: Licorice extract is made from dried root with water, alcohol, or other solvents. Glabridin-rich extracts are oil-soluble. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate and glycyrrhetinic acid are purified derivatives. |
Verification: Supported. Licorice chemistry is well documented.
Citations:
- Simmler, C., Pauli, G. F., & Chen, S. N. (2013). Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia, 90, 160–184. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Phytochemistry%20and%20biological%20properties%20of%20glabridin
- What it shows: Describes glabridin and related compounds.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2007). Final report on the safety assessment of glycyrrhetinic acid, potassium glycyrrhetinate, disodium succinoyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhetinyl stearate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhizic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, disodium glycyrrhizate, trisodium glycyrrhizate, methyl glycyrrhizate, and potassium glycyrrhizinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 26(Suppl 2), 79–112. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810701351228
- What it shows: Describes glycyrrhizin derivatives.
- Simmler, C., Pauli, G. F., & Chen, S. N. (2013). Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia, 90, 160–184. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Phytochemistry%20and%20biological%20properties%20of%20glabridin
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Licorice extract and its derivatives suit all skin types, including sensitive skin. |
Verification: Supported. The CIR Expert Panel concluded that glycyrrhizic acid, its salts, and glycyrrhetinic acid are safe as used in cosmetics. We found no CIR conclusion specifically for licorice root extract.
Citations:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2007). Final report on the safety assessment of glycyrrhetinic acid, potassium glycyrrhetinate, disodium succinoyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhetinyl stearate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhizic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, disodium glycyrrhizate, trisodium glycyrrhizate, methyl glycyrrhizate, and potassium glycyrrhizinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 26(Suppl 2), 79–112. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810701351228
- What it shows: CIR safety conclusion for licorice-derived compounds.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2007). Final report on the safety assessment of glycyrrhetinic acid, potassium glycyrrhetinate, disodium succinoyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhetinyl stearate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhizic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, disodium glycyrrhizate, trisodium glycyrrhizate, methyl glycyrrhizate, and potassium glycyrrhizinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 26(Suppl 2), 79–112. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810701351228
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, licorice derivatives help the scalp feel comfortable and soothed. |
Verification: Limited evidence. We found no clinical studies of licorice on the scalp. Licorice is not an FDA-approved dandruff ingredient, and ORY® haircare products are not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions.
Citations:
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
- What it shows: FDA dandruff actives list, which does not include licorice.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
5. Benefits
Claim: Licorice extract helps skin look more even-toned, brighter, and calmer. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Glabridin reduced pigment production in lab and animal studies. Small clinical studies tested liquiritin cream in melasma and licorice gel in atopic dermatitis; these are medical uses, and ORY® does not make melasma, eczema, or dark-circle treatment claims.
Citations:
- Yokota, T., Nishio, H., Kubota, Y., & Mizoguchi, M. (1998). The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation. Pigment Cell Research, 11(6), 355–361. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0749.1998.tb00494.x
- What it shows: Lab and animal evidence.
- Amer, M., & Metwalli, M. (2000). Topical liquiritin improves melasma. International Journal of Dermatology, 39(4), 299–301. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-4362.2000.00943.x
- What it shows: Melasma study (a medical use).
- Saeedi, M., Morteza-Semnani, K., & Ghoreishi, M. R. (2003). The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 14(3), 153–157. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546630310014369
- What it shows: Atopic dermatitis study (a medical use).
- Yokota, T., Nishio, H., Kubota, Y., & Mizoguchi, M. (1998). The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation. Pigment Cell Research, 11(6), 355–361. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0749.1998.tb00494.x
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Licorice extract and its derivatives are used in all four ORY® product lines. |
Verification: Supported. Derivative levels stay within the ranges CIR reviewed (up to 1% for dipotassium glycyrrhizate and 2% for glycyrrhetinic acid). We found no data on how much of licorice’s active compounds survive soapmaking.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 0.5–5% extract; 0.05–0.5% glabridin; 0.1–1% dipotassium glycyrrhizate | Serums, creams, eye creams, after-sun products, and masks. |
| Haircare | 0.5–2% extract; 0.2–1% dipotassium glycyrrhizate | Shampoos and scalp serums for sensitive scalps. |
| Handmade Soap | 1–2% extract; about 1 tsp powder per lb of oils | Extract or root powder added at trace. |
| Cosmetics | 0.2–2% | Foundations, concealers, primers, and lip balms. |
Citations:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2007). Final report on the safety assessment of glycyrrhetinic acid, potassium glycyrrhetinate, disodium succinoyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhetinyl stearate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhizic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, disodium glycyrrhizate, trisodium glycyrrhizate, methyl glycyrrhizate, and potassium glycyrrhizinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 26(Suppl 2), 79–112. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810701351228
- What it shows: Reported use concentrations.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
- What it shows: FDA explains how soap is regulated.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2007). Final report on the safety assessment of glycyrrhetinic acid, potassium glycyrrhetinate, disodium succinoyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhetinyl stearate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhizic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, disodium glycyrrhizate, trisodium glycyrrhizate, methyl glycyrrhizate, and potassium glycyrrhizinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 26(Suppl 2), 79–112. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810701351228
7. Pros
Claim: A gentle, well-tolerated option for more even-looking skin. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Supported by lab studies and small clinical studies.
Citations:
- Simmler, C., Pauli, G. F., & Chen, S. N. (2013). Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia, 90, 160–184. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Phytochemistry%20and%20biological%20properties%20of%20glabridin
- What it shows: Review.
- Simmler, C., Pauli, G. F., & Chen, S. N. (2013). Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia, 90, 160–184. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Phytochemistry%20and%20biological%20properties%20of%20glabridin
8. Cons
Claim: Glabridin is costly and variable, and human evidence is limited to small medical studies. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Cost and variability. Glabridin content varies widely between extracts.
- Small studies. Clinical studies were small and tested medical conditions.
- Data gap. No CIR conclusion specifically for licorice root extract.
Citations:
- Simmler, C., Pauli, G. F., & Chen, S. N. (2013). Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia, 90, 160–184. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Phytochemistry%20and%20biological%20properties%20of%20glabridin
- What it shows: Composition.
- Amer, M., & Metwalli, M. (2000). Topical liquiritin improves melasma. International Journal of Dermatology, 39(4), 299–301. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-4362.2000.00943.x
- What it shows: Small study.
- Simmler, C., Pauli, G. F., & Chen, S. N. (2013). Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia, 90, 160–184. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Phytochemistry%20and%20biological%20properties%20of%20glabridin
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes. Do not use on broken or seriously damaged skin.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2007). Final report on the safety assessment of glycyrrhetinic acid, potassium glycyrrhetinate, disodium succinoyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhetinyl stearate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhizic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, disodium glycyrrhizate, trisodium glycyrrhizate, methyl glycyrrhizate, and potassium glycyrrhizinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 26(Suppl 2), 79–112. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810701351228
- What it shows: Safety assessment.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2007). Final report on the safety assessment of glycyrrhetinic acid, potassium glycyrrhetinate, disodium succinoyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhetinyl stearate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhizic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, disodium glycyrrhizate, trisodium glycyrrhizate, methyl glycyrrhizate, and potassium glycyrrhizinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 26(Suppl 2), 79–112. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810701351228
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
- ORY® Handmade Soap: Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly in color, scent, and texture. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Amer, M., & Metwalli, M. (2000). Topical liquiritin improves melasma. International Journal of Dermatology, 39(4), 299–301. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-4362.2000.00943.x
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2007). Final report on the safety assessment of glycyrrhetinic acid, potassium glycyrrhetinate, disodium succinoyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhetinyl stearate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, glycyrrhizic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizate, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, disodium glycyrrhizate, trisodium glycyrrhizate, methyl glycyrrhizate, and potassium glycyrrhizinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 26(Suppl 2), 79–112. https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810701351228
- Saeedi, M., Morteza-Semnani, K., & Ghoreishi, M. R. (2003). The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 14(3), 153–157. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546630310014369
- Simmler, C., Pauli, G. F., & Chen, S. N. (2013). Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia, 90, 160–184. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Phytochemistry%20and%20biological%20properties%20of%20glabridin
- Yokota, T., Nishio, H., Kubota, Y., & Mizoguchi, M. (1998). The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation. Pigment Cell Research, 11(6), 355–361. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0749.1998.tb00494.x
Government and regulatory sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap