Behenyl Alcohol

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about behenyl alcohol. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

How to read this page

Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews.

Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY^® uses.

Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: Behenyl alcohol is a plant-derived fatty alcohol with a 22-carbon chain, made from rapeseed or palm oil. In ORY^® products, it thickens and stabilizes creams, sticks, and conditioners and gives them a drier, less waxy feel.

Verification: Supported. The CIR Expert Panel concluded that behenyl alcohol is safe as used in cosmetics and reaffirmed that conclusion in 2005. Despite the word “alcohol,” fatty alcohols are waxy, moisturizing ingredients, not drying alcohols like ethanol.

Citations:

- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
  - What it shows: CIR safety assessment.

2. Composition and Production

Claim: Behenyl alcohol is made by hydrogenating behenic acid from rapeseed or palm oil. It melts at about 70 °C, the highest of the common fatty alcohols, which helps products hold their shape in warm conditions. Chemically, it is also called docosanol.

Verification: Supported. Its chemistry is well documented. Docosanol has been studied in the lab against herpes viruses, and a 10% docosanol cream is an FDA-approved cold-sore medicine; these are drug uses that do not apply to ORY^® cosmetics.

Citations:

- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
  - What it shows: Describes chemistry and manufacture.
- Katz, D. H., Marcelletti, J. F., Khalil, M. H., Pope, L. E., & Katz, L. R. (1991). Antiviral activity of 1-docosanol, an inhibitor of lipid-enveloped viruses including herpes simplex. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences USA, 88(23), 10825–10829. https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.88.23.10825
  - What it shows: Lab study of docosanol against viruses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Abreva (docosanol 10% cream), NDA 20-941, approved 2000 as an over-the-counter cold-sore treatment. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/nda/2000/20-941_Abreva.cfm
  - What it shows: FDA approval of docosanol 10% as a cold-sore drug.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: Behenyl alcohol suits all skin types, and its drier feel suits oily and combination skin.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. CIR found it safe in cosmetics. Rare allergic reactions to fatty alcohols have been reported, so people with a history of dermatitis should patch test.

Citations:

- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
  - What it shows: Safety data.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, behenyl alcohol adds slip and body to conditioners and pairs well with behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS).

Verification: Supported. Fatty alcohols are standard conditioning and thickening ingredients in conditioners. ORY^® haircare products are not intended to treat scalp conditions.

Citations:

- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
  - What it shows: Review of hair cosmetics, including conditioners.

5. Benefits

Claim: Behenyl alcohol helps skin feel soft with a dry, elegant finish, helps reduce moisture loss, and makes products more heat-stable.

Verification: Supported. Emollients as a class soften skin and help reduce water loss. These are cosmetic, texture-related benefits, not treatment of any skin condition.

Citations:

- Lodén, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
  - What it shows: Review of emollients and the skin barrier.
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
  - What it shows: Hair conditioning.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Claim: Behenyl alcohol is used in ORY^® Skincare, Haircare, and Cosmetics, and in solid bars.

Verification: Supported. Use levels fall within ranges long used in cosmetics.

Product line	Typical level	How ORY^® uses it
Skincare	1–5%	Creams, moisturizers, and lip, balm, and deodorant sticks.
Haircare	1–6%	Conditioners, masks, and styling creams.
Handmade Soap line	5–20% in solid bars	Lotion, syndet, and conditioner bars (not cold-process soap).
Cosmetics	1–10%	Lipsticks, cream sticks, foundations, and mascaras.

Citations:

- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
  - What it shows: Reported uses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
  - What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.

7. Pros

Claim: A dry-feeling, heat-stable fatty alcohol backed by a CIR safety conclusion.

Verification: Supported. Backed by a long CIR safety record.

Citations:

- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.

8. Cons

Claim: Behenyl alcohol costs more, needs hotter processing, and needs a partner emulsifier.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

- Cost. Higher than cetyl or stearyl alcohol.
- Processing. Must be melted at 75–80 °C.
- Not an emulsifier alone. Needs a primary emulsifier.
- Rare allergy. Patch test if you react to cosmetics.
- No drug claims. Cold-sore claims belong to approved drugs only.

Citations:

- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
  - What it shows: Safety data.

9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- If you have had allergic reactions to creams or cosmetics before, patch test carefully.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
  - What it shows: Safety data.

10. Product-line notes

- ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY^® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
- ORY^® Handmade Soap line: This ingredient is not used in cold-process soap. Syndet, lotion, shampoo, and conditioner bars that contain it are cosmetics under FDA rules, not soap, and list all of their ingredients. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY^® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 7(3), 359–413 (conclusion reaffirmed by CIR in 2005). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3a_suppl.pdf
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- Katz, D. H., Marcelletti, J. F., Khalil, M. H., Pope, L. E., & Katz, L. R. (1991). Antiviral activity of 1-docosanol, an inhibitor of lipid-enveloped viruses including herpes simplex. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences USA, 88(23), 10825–10829. https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.88.23.10825
- Lodén, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005

Government and regulatory sources

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Abreva (docosanol 10% cream), NDA 20-941, approved 2000 as an over-the-counter cold-sore treatment. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/nda/2000/20-941_Abreva.cfm
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20

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Behenyl Alcohol

1. General Description and Role

2. Composition and Production

3. Skin Type Suitability

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

5. Benefits

6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines

7. Pros

8. Cons

9. Safety Notes

10. Product-line notes

11. References

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines