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Salicylic Acid
At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about salicylic acid. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
Important: Salicylic acid is an FDA-recognized over-the-counter (OTC) drug ingredient for acne (0.5–2%) and dandruff (1.8–3%). ORY® products that make acne or dandruff claims are OTC drugs and carry an FDA Drug Facts label. ORY® products that use salicylic acid only to exfoliate, without those claims, are cosmetics.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Salicylic acid is the best-known beta hydroxy acid (BHA). It is oil-soluble, so it can work inside oily pores to loosen the dead cells and oil that clog them. FDA recognizes it as an OTC drug ingredient for acne at 0.5–2% and for dandruff at 1.8–3%. |
Verification: Supported. FDA rules list salicylic acid as an approved acne and dandruff active at these strengths. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel found salicylic acid safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating.
Citations:
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
- What it shows: FDA acne rule: salicylic acid 0.5–2%.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
- What it shows: FDA dandruff rule: salicylic acid 1.8–3%.
- Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (2003). Safety assessment of salicylic acid, butyloctyl salicylate, calcium salicylate, and other salicylates. International Journal of Toxicology, 22(Suppl 3), 1–108. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581803022S303
- What it shows: Original CIR safety assessment (2003).
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Amended safety assessment of salicylic acid and salicylates as used in cosmetics. https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Salicylic%20Acid%20and%20Salicylates.pdf
- What it shows: CIR amended conclusion: safe when formulated to be non-irritating.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
2. Composition and Production
Claim: Salicylic acid (C₇H₆O₃) was first isolated from willow bark and is related to aspirin. Cosmetic grades are made synthetically. It dissolves poorly in water, so formulas use solvents or solubilizers and are usually kept at pH 3–4. |
Verification: Supported. Chemistry and formulation needs are well documented.
Citations:
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- What it shows: Describes salicylic acid’s properties and how it acts on skin.
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Salicylic acid suits oily, acne-prone, and combination skin best. Normal and mature skin can use it for smoother texture. Dry and sensitive skin should use low strengths or rinse-off products. |
Verification: Supported. The 2024 American Academy of Dermatology acne guideline recommends salicylic acid as an acne treatment option. Irritation and dryness limit use on dry or sensitive skin.
Citations:
- Reynolds, R. V., Yeung, H., Cheng, C. E., et al. (2024). Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 90(5), 1006.e1–1006.e30. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2023.12.017
- What it shows: AAD guideline including salicylic acid for acne.
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- What it shows: Review of uses and side effects.
- Reynolds, R. V., Yeung, H., Cheng, C. E., et al. (2024). Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 90(5), 1006.e1–1006.e30. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2023.12.017
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In ORY® Haircare, salicylic acid is used in OTC dandruff shampoos (1.8–3%) and in cosmetic scalp-clarifying treatments that lift buildup. |
Verification: Supported. FDA recognizes salicylic acid for dandruff at 1.8–3%. A clinical trial found a shampoo combining 3% salicylic acid with 1.5% ciclopirox olamine compared favorably with a 2% ketoconazole shampoo; because it was a combination product, the result cannot be credited to salicylic acid alone.
Citations:
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
- What it shows: FDA dandruff rule and approved strengths.
- Squire, R. A., & Goode, K. (2002). A randomised, single-blind, single-centre clinical trial to evaluate comparative clinical efficacy of shampoos containing ciclopirox olamine (1.5%) and salicylic acid (3%), or ketoconazole (2%, Nizoral) for the treatment of dandruff/seborrhoeic dermatitis. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 13(2), 51–60. https://doi.org/10.1080/095466302317584395
- What it shows: Clinical trial of a salicylic acid combination shampoo.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
5. Benefits
Claim: Salicylic acid helps clear pores, gently exfoliates for smoother-looking skin, and, in OTC products, helps clear acne blemishes or control dandruff flaking. |
Verification: Supported. Pore-clearing and exfoliating action are well documented. Acne and dandruff benefits apply only to ORY® products labeled as OTC drugs.
Citations:
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- What it shows: Review of exfoliating and pore-clearing effects.
- Reynolds, R. V., Yeung, H., Cheng, C. E., et al. (2024). Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 90(5), 1006.e1–1006.e30. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2023.12.017
- What it shows: Guideline evidence for acne.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
- What it shows: Approved acne indications.
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Salicylic acid is used in ORY® Skincare, Haircare, and Cosmetics, and in syndet bars. It is not used in true cold-process soap. |
Verification: Supported. Lye in cold-process soap converts salicylic acid to sodium salicylate, which removes its exfoliating action. Syndet bars can keep a lower pH. Any product claiming to treat acne or dandruff must follow FDA OTC drug rules.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 0.5–2% (OTC acne); up to 2% cosmetic | Cleansers, toners, serums, and spot treatments. |
| Haircare | 1.8–3% (OTC dandruff); 1–2% cosmetic scalp care | Dandruff shampoos, clarifying shampoos, and pre-shampoo scalp treatments. |
| Handmade Soap | 1–2% in syndet bars only | Not used in true soap; syndet bars with acne claims are OTC drugs. |
| Cosmetics | 0.5–1% | Foundations, tinted moisturizers, and primers (no acne claims unless labeled as a drug). |
Citations:
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
- What it shows: Acne strength range and labeling.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
- What it shows: Dandruff strength range and labeling.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
- What it shows: FDA explains when soap is a cosmetic or a drug.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
7. Pros
Claim: Works inside pores, recognized by FDA for both acne and dandruff, affordable, and stable. |
Verification: Supported. Supported by FDA rules and clinical literature.
Citations:
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
- What it shows: Acne recognition.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
- What it shows: Dandruff recognition.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
8. Cons
Claim: Salicylic acid can dry and irritate, is not for people allergic to salicylates, can increase sun sensitivity, and does not work in true soap. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Dryness and irritation. More likely at higher strengths or with frequent use.
- Salicylate allergy. Avoid if allergic to aspirin or other salicylates.
- Sun sensitivity. Use sunscreen daily.
- Drug rules. Acne and dandruff claims require OTC drug labeling.
- No true-soap use. Lye neutralizes it.
Citations:
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- What it shows: Side effects of salicylic acid.
- Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (2003). Safety assessment of salicylic acid, butyloctyl salicylate, calcium salicylate, and other salicylates. International Journal of Toxicology, 22(Suppl 3), 1–108. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581803022S303
- What it shows: Safety findings reviewed by the CIR.
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Follow the Drug Facts label on OTC products and patch test cosmetic products. |
Verification: Supported. The key label warnings are listed below the disclaimer on this page.
Citations:
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
- What it shows: Source of acne product warnings.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
- What it shows: Source of dandruff product warnings.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
Before you use a salicylic acid product
- OTC acne products: Using other topical acne medicines at the same time or right after may increase dryness or irritation; if this occurs, use only one at a time unless directed by a doctor. Follow the Drug Facts label.
- OTC dandruff products: For external use only. Avoid contact with eyes. Stop use and ask a doctor if the condition worsens or does not improve after regular use. Follow the Drug Facts label.
- All salicylic acid products: Do not use if you are allergic to salicylates (including aspirin). Do not use on broken, irritated, or sunburned skin. Use sunscreen daily.
- Handmade soap: Salicylic acid does not work in true cold-process soap. ORY® uses it only in syndet (synthetic detergent) bars.
10. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (2003). Safety assessment of salicylic acid, butyloctyl salicylate, calcium salicylate, and other salicylates. International Journal of Toxicology, 22(Suppl 3), 1–108. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581803022S303
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- Reynolds, R. V., Yeung, H., Cheng, C. E., et al. (2024). Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 90(5), 1006.e1–1006.e30. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2023.12.017
- Squire, R. A., & Goode, K. (2002). A randomised, single-blind, single-centre clinical trial to evaluate comparative clinical efficacy of shampoos containing ciclopirox olamine (1.5%) and salicylic acid (3%), or ketoconazole (2%, Nizoral) for the treatment of dandruff/seborrhoeic dermatitis. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 13(2), 51–60. https://doi.org/10.1080/095466302317584395
Government and regulatory sources
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Amended safety assessment of salicylic acid and salicylates as used in cosmetics. https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Salicylic%20Acid%20and%20Salicylates.pdf
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap