Borage Seed Oil

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about borage seed oil. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

Please note: Some studies on this page tested borage oil in people with eczema or seborrheic dermatitis, and some tested it taken by mouth. We share them for transparency. ORY^® borage products are cosmetics and are not intended to treat any condition.

How to read this page

Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews.

Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY^® uses.

Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: Borage seed oil, pressed from starflower seeds, is the richest common plant source of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), an omega-6 fatty acid. In ORY^® products it softens and moisturizes dry skin and hair and helps skin feel comfortable.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Borage oil’s fatty-acid profile is well documented, and the skin can convert GLA into anti-inflammatory compounds. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel found plant-derived fatty acid oils, including borage seed oil, safe as used in cosmetics. Evidence for treating eczema is mixed: a Cochrane review found oral borage oil did not improve eczema.

Citations:

- Burnett, C. L., Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of plant-derived fatty acid oils. International Journal of Toxicology, 36(3 Suppl), 51S–129S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581817740569
  - What it shows: CIR safety review of plant-derived oils.
- Ziboh, V. A., Miller, C. C., & Cho, Y. (2000). Metabolism of polyunsaturated fatty acids by skin epidermal enzymes: Generation of antiinflammatory and antiproliferative metabolites. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 71(1 Suppl), 361S–366S. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/71.1.361s
  - What it shows: How skin enzymes convert GLA into anti-inflammatory compounds.
- Bamford, J. T. M., Ray, S., Musekiwa, A., et al. (2013). Oral evening primrose oil and borage oil for eczema. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews, (4), CD004416. https://doi.org/10.1002/14651858.CD004416.pub2
  - What it shows: Cochrane review: oral borage oil did not help eczema.

2. Composition and Production

Claim: Borage oil is cold-pressed or CO₂-extracted and refined. It contains about 18–25% GLA, 35–40% linoleic acid, plus oleic acid, vitamin E, and phytosterols. ORY^® uses refined oil free of pyrrolizidine alkaloids.

Verification: Supported. The fatty-acid profile is well documented.

Citations:

- Foster, R. H., Hardy, G., & Alany, R. G. (2010). Borage oil in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Nutrition, 26(7–8), 708–718. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0899900709004468
  - What it shows: Review describing borage oil composition.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: Borage oil suits dry, mature, sensitive, normal, and combination skin. Oily and acne-prone skin should use it only in small amounts.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. As an emollient oil, borage suits dry skin. Research in eczema-prone skin is mixed and involves medical use.

Citations:

- Foster, R. H., Hardy, G., & Alany, R. G. (2010). Borage oil in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Nutrition, 26(7–8), 708–718. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0899900709004468
  - What it shows: Review of topical and oral borage oil research.
- Kanehara, S., Ohtani, T., Uede, K., & Furukawa, F. (2007). Clinical effects of undershirts coated with borage oil on children with atopic dermatitis: A double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Journal of Dermatology, 34(12), 811–815. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1346-8138.2007.00391.x
  - What it shows: Placebo-controlled study of borage-oil-coated undershirts in children with atopic dermatitis.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, borage oil softens dry hair and helps a dry scalp feel moisturized.

Verification: Limited evidence. A 1993 report described borage oil use for infant seborrheic dermatitis, a medical condition. We found no cosmetic hair studies. ORY^® haircare products are not intended to treat dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, or cradle cap.

Citations:

- Tollesson, A., & Frithz, A. (1993). Borage oil, an effective new treatment for infantile seborrhoeic dermatitis. British Journal of Dermatology, 129(1), 95. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.1993.tb03322.x
  - What it shows: Small clinical report in infants with seborrheic dermatitis (medical use).

5. Benefits

Claim: Borage oil moisturizes and softens dry, rough skin, helps skin feel comfortable, and conditions dry hair.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Emollient benefits are expected from its fatty acids. A controlled study in children found borage-oil undershirts improved skin symptoms, but a Cochrane review found oral borage oil did not help eczema. Anti-itch and dermatitis relief are medical uses that ORY^® does not claim.

Citations:

- Kanehara, S., Ohtani, T., Uede, K., & Furukawa, F. (2007). Clinical effects of undershirts coated with borage oil on children with atopic dermatitis: A double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Journal of Dermatology, 34(12), 811–815. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1346-8138.2007.00391.x
  - What it shows: Placebo-controlled undershirt study.
- Bamford, J. T. M., Ray, S., Musekiwa, A., et al. (2013). Oral evening primrose oil and borage oil for eczema. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews, (4), CD004416. https://doi.org/10.1002/14651858.CD004416.pub2
  - What it shows: Negative Cochrane review for oral use.
- Ziboh, V. A., Miller, C. C., & Cho, Y. (2000). Metabolism of polyunsaturated fatty acids by skin epidermal enzymes: Generation of antiinflammatory and antiproliferative metabolites. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 71(1 Suppl), 361S–366S. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/71.1.361s
  - What it shows: Mechanism for GLA in skin.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Claim: Borage oil is used in all four ORY^® product lines; in soap it is added as a small superfat.

Verification: Supported. Borage oil’s fragile fatty acids oxidize quickly, so it is added at trace in soap and protected with antioxidants.

Product line	Typical level	How ORY^® uses it
Skincare	2–20% (up to 100% in face-oil blends)	Face oils, creams, balms, and body oils.
Haircare	1–10%	Scalp oils, hair oils, conditioners, and masks.
Handmade Soap	2–5% of oils as superfat	Added at trace for a conditioning bar.
Cosmetics	2–10%	Lip balms, tinted balms, and cuticle oils.

Citations:

- Burnett, C. L., Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of plant-derived fatty acid oils. International Journal of Toxicology, 36(3 Suppl), 51S–129S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581817740569
  - What it shows: Cosmetic use and safety.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
  - What it shows: FDA explains how soap is regulated.

7. Pros

Claim: Highest natural GLA, light texture, and useful in every ORY^® line.

Verification: Supported. Composition is well documented.

Citations:

- Foster, R. H., Hardy, G., & Alany, R. G. (2010). Borage oil in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Nutrition, 26(7–8), 708–718. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0899900709004468
  - What it shows: Composition and research review.

8. Cons

Claim: Borage oil oxidizes quickly, is costly, must be refined to remove pyrrolizidine alkaloids, and has mixed clinical evidence.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

- Oxidation. Short shelf life; needs antioxidants and cool storage.
- Cost. A premium oil.
- Pyrrolizidine alkaloids. Only refined, PA-free oil should be used.
- Mixed evidence. Oral borage oil did not help eczema in a Cochrane review.
- Heavy for oily scalps. Use on ends only.

Citations:

- Bamford, J. T. M., Ray, S., Musekiwa, A., et al. (2013). Oral evening primrose oil and borage oil for eczema. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews, (4), CD004416. https://doi.org/10.1002/14651858.CD004416.pub2
  - What it shows: Cochrane review.

9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Discard if the product smells sharp or like paint, which is a sign of oxidation.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes. Do not use on broken or seriously damaged skin.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

- Burnett, C. L., Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of plant-derived fatty acid oils. International Journal of Toxicology, 36(3 Suppl), 51S–129S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581817740569
  - What it shows: Safety data reviewed by the CIR.

10. Product-line notes

- ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY^® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
- ORY^® Handmade Soap: Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly in color, scent, and texture. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY^® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

- Bamford, J. T. M., Ray, S., Musekiwa, A., et al. (2013). Oral evening primrose oil and borage oil for eczema. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews, (4), CD004416. https://doi.org/10.1002/14651858.CD004416.pub2
- Burnett, C. L., Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of plant-derived fatty acid oils. International Journal of Toxicology, 36(3 Suppl), 51S–129S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581817740569
- Foster, R. H., Hardy, G., & Alany, R. G. (2010). Borage oil in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Nutrition, 26(7–8), 708–718. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0899900709004468
- Kanehara, S., Ohtani, T., Uede, K., & Furukawa, F. (2007). Clinical effects of undershirts coated with borage oil on children with atopic dermatitis: A double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Journal of Dermatology, 34(12), 811–815. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1346-8138.2007.00391.x
- Tollesson, A., & Frithz, A. (1993). Borage oil, an effective new treatment for infantile seborrhoeic dermatitis. British Journal of Dermatology, 129(1), 95. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.1993.tb03322.x
- Ziboh, V. A., Miller, C. C., & Cho, Y. (2000). Metabolism of polyunsaturated fatty acids by skin epidermal enzymes: Generation of antiinflammatory and antiproliferative metabolites. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 71(1 Suppl), 361S–366S. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/71.1.361s

Government and regulatory sources

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap

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Borage Seed Oil

1. General Description and Role

2. Composition and Production

3. Skin Type Suitability

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

5. Benefits

6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines

7. Pros

8. Cons

9. Safety Notes

10. Product-line notes

11. References

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines