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Polysorbate 60
ORY® product lines:
☑ Skincare
☑ Haircare
◐ Handmade Soap (limited: liquid soap, bath products, syndet bars)
☑ Cosmetics — three-line functional ingredient
Polysorbate 60 is a non-ionic, water-loving emulsifier and solubilizer made by attaching about 20 units of ethylene oxide to sorbitan monostearate (a sugar-alcohol fatty ester). Its high HLB (~14.9) lets it hold oil droplets in water, disperse essential oils and oil-soluble actives into water-based products, and serve as the water-loving half of Emulsifying Wax NF. It is the classic co-emulsifier for glyceryl stearate in creams and the solubilizer of choice for adding fragrance or botanical oils to toners, mists, bath salts, and liquid soaps. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has reviewed polysorbates and found them safe as used [1]. Because it is ethoxylated, polysorbate 60 is excluded from some natural standards and must be sourced with controlled 1,4-dioxane residues.
What is Polysorbate 60 made of?
Polysorbate 60 is produced by ethoxylating sorbitan monostearate with ~20 moles of ethylene oxide. Points to know [1]:
- Sorbitan monostearate core: Sorbitol-derived sugar alcohol esterified with stearic acid (plant-derived).
- ~20 ethylene-oxide (PEG) units: Water-loving chains that raise HLB to ~14.9.
- Non-ionic: Tolerant of acids, salts, and cationics.
- Physical form: Yellow waxy solid or paste; water-dispersible.
- Residual 1,4-dioxane: Must be <10 ppm (vacuum-stripped grades); ethoxylation excludes it from COSMOS/Ecocert.
What skin type is best suited for Polysorbate 60?
Polysorbate 60 is a functional emulsifier suitable for all seven ORY® skin types at typical levels:
- Normal: Everyday cream and lotion co-emulsifier.
- Dry: Stabilizes rich creams with glyceryl stearate.
- Oily: Solubilizes actives in oil-free gels and toners.
- Combination: Light emulsions and mists.
- Acne-prone: Solubilizes tea tree and salicylic-acid oils into water-based products.
- Mature: Cream stabilization; delivers oil-soluble antioxidants in serums.
- Sensitive: Generally non-irritating; some prefer PEG-free alternatives — ORY® offers Montanov or Olivem options.
What hair type is best suited for Polysorbate 60?
Polysorbate 60 disperses oils into water-based haircare and stabilizes creams:
- Oily scalp: Solubilizes rosemary or tea tree oil in water-based scalp toners.
- Dandruff-prone scalp: Delivers essential oils in scalp mists and rinses.
- Dry or damaged: Co-emulsifier in hair creams and masks.
- Curly and coily: Curl creams and refresh sprays with dispersed oils.
- Straight, wavy, color-treated, sensitive scalp, mature or thinning: Functional; neutral for hair type.
What are the benefits of Polysorbate 60?
Polysorbate 60’s benefits are functional [1, 2]:
- High-HLB emulsifier: Stabilizes oil-in-water creams with a low-HLB partner.
- Solubilizer: Disperses essential oils and oil-soluble actives into water-based products (toners, mists, bath salts).
- Component of Emulsifying Wax NF: The water-loving half of the standard blend.
- Non-ionic tolerance: Compatible with acids, salts, cationics.
- Mild: Low irritation potential at use levels [1].
- Bath and liquid-soap dispersant: Keeps oils blended in bath products and liquid cleansers.
- Stable: Heat- and pH-tolerant.
Dual use across ORY® product lines
Polysorbate 60 serves emulsions and solubilized water-based products across skincare, haircare, and cosmetics; in soap it belongs to liquid and syndet products, not cold-process bars.
| ORY® line | Dual use? | How it is used | Typical level |
|---|---|---|---|
|
ORY® Skincare |
Yes |
Co-emulsifier in creams (with glyceryl stearate); solubilizer in toners, mists, gels, bath salts and oils. |
1–4% emulsifier; 2–5× the oil load as solubilizer |
|
ORY® Haircare |
Yes |
Solubilizer in scalp toners and refresh sprays; co-emulsifier in hair creams. |
0.5–3% |
|
ORY® Handmade Soap |
Limited |
Not in cold-process bars; disperses fragrance and oils in liquid soap, bath bombs/salts, and syndet bars. |
1–5% |
|
ORY® Cosmetics |
Yes |
Foundations, makeup-removing waters (micellar), setting sprays (fragrance dispersion). |
0.5–3% |
Pros and cons of Polysorbate 60
Pros
Cons
- Reliable emulsifier/solubilizer: Decades of use.
- Non-ionic, tolerant: Works with most actives.
- CIR-reviewed safe: [1].
- Affordable: Economical.
- Bath-product enabler: Keeps oils dispersed and prevents slippery tubs.
- Ethoxylated (PEG): Excluded from COSMOS/Ecocert and some clean-beauty lists.
- 1,4-dioxane traces: Require certified low-residue grades.
- Slight odor and color: Yellow; faint fatty note.
- Can feel tacky at high solubilizer loads: Balance with glycols.
- Consumer perception: ORY® should offer PEG-free alternatives on request.
What is the best application of Polysorbate 60?
Polysorbate 60 is built into emulsions and solubilized products:
- Cream: 2% with 3% glyceryl stearate.
- Toner or mist with essential oils: Pre-mix polysorbate with the oil (3:1) before adding to water.
- Bath salts or bath oil: Blend with carrier oils so they disperse in water.
- Scalp toner: Solubilize rosemary or tea tree oil.
- Liquid soap: Fragrance dispersion.
- Cosmetics: Micellar cleansing water; setting spray.
Peer-reviewed references
- Elder RL (ed). Final report on the safety assessment of polysorbates 20, 21, 40, 60, 61, 65, 80, 81, and 85. Journal of the American College of Toxicology. 1984;3(5):1–82.
- Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Moore DJ, Subramanyan K, Misra M, Meyer F. Cleansing without compromise: the impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy. 2004;17(Suppl 1):16–25.
Disclaimer:
The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about polysorbate 60 as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.
ORY® Skincare, Haircare, Handmade Soap, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including eczema, dermatitis, acne, dandruff, or any other condition. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.
Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. Emulsifiers are rarely irritating at normal use levels, and any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.
ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].
